Extractions used to be a necessary part of a facial. Skin therapists would pick, squeeze and pop – removing sebaceous oil, comadones, milia and pustules (aka grease, black heads, whiteheads and zits, oh my!) from the skin. If the sound of this makes you queasy, imagine what we see under the magnifying lamp! As skin therapists, we find this kind of things quite fun – as it is pretty satisfying.But are extractions in the best interest of your skin? Do extractions actually make a difference in the long term?
When Extractions are good. If you suffer from black heads, whiteheads or large pustules – extractions will help clear them in the short term, if, and big if, your skin is properly prepped to do so. Extracting on dry, non supple skin can cause broken capillaries (which don’t really break but bruise and swell), micro skin tearing, redness and sensitivity. To properly prep the skin the pores need to be opened and skin softened. This can be done with gentle steaming and detoxifying products. I must stress “gentle” steam as steam that is too hot, again, does more damage than good – not to mention it’s uncomfortable to receive. One of my worst pet peeves is therapists who don’t pay attention to the client and their comfort level. If your therapist ever puts steam, or anything else on you, which makes you uncomfortable please let them know! I digress. . . Pustules (zits that have a white head) must be very carefully extracted – proper sterilization must happen after wards to prevent cross contamination. Zits that are popped and squeezed incorrectly will result in more zits around it. This cross contamination is why we tell you NOT to pop zits at home. While I completely understand the urge to get at it – try to resist! Or at the very least make sure you have an anti-bacterial cream or serum on hand to kill those nasty P Acnes bacteria. Black heads and milia are really the only thing that one should extract. A black head is created when oil is stuck in the pore and then cooked by the sun (oxidized). The pore will continue to expand if the crust is not dislodged to allow proper flow of your sebaceous oil. When it comes to treating black heads prevention is the best bet. Your oil glands refill within six to seven hours – so if you are not doing proper home care – you will just keep getting black heads after your facial. You need to use a proper cleanser that does not strip or dry out your skin and exfoliate as often as your skin will allow. Avoid using products with mineral oil, paraffin oil or petrolatum. Yucky stuff that clogs pores!! Milia are little grains of keratinized skin cells (dead, old skin cells) trapped under a thin layer of skin. These are the trickiest to remove. As with blackheads, home care is essential– but professional peels will work the best.
When extractions are bad. If you have rosacea, uber sensitive skin or a sunburn, do not have extractions done. If you have a low pain tolerance, avoid extractions! They can hurt. Milia are especially difficult to remove and take some maneuvering on your therapist’s part. If you have unrealistic expectations – your therapist will try her best to remove what she can, but remember, a good therapist is concerned with the overall health of your skin, and if removal of something is too difficult, it may result in redness or even scarring. Again, regular facials and home care are your best bet! Prevention is always better than correcting!
Kabuki Facials At Kabuki we do not do extractions in our Essential or Specialized Facials. We are able to do the nose area upon request, but it is not a part of the regular protocol. You will see this trend grow across other skin centres and spas. If you really need extractions book the Clear Skin Facial. It’s an hour and a half for a reason. We properly prep the skin for lots of extractions. We will take care not to damage or stress the skin. Ultimately the long term health of your skin is our main concern. I also want to remind you that home care is an equally important aspect of your skin care as your professional treatments. At Kabuki educating you on self-care (which include at home regime) is an essential part of your facial. Not telling you how to take care of your own skin is a huge disservice to you. With the proper tools and knowledge you are more likely to reach your skin care goals.
The spa treatments you want for clear skin Clear Skin Facial – 1.5 hrs Do this facial once a month or at least every season change. We will educate you on how to prevent further breakouts and remove blackheads, whiteheads and pustules for you. Arctic Berry or Yam & Pumpkin Peel – 30min. These professional intense skin peels will remove the top layers of your skin giving you a fresh new surface. I love how short these services are yet pack a serious punch. You can get one of these on your lunch! Kabuki Skin Flash – 30min, This is great for the time crunched or financially strapped sufferer of congested skin. We have some amazing products that will detox your skin and open the pores for us so we can do extractions on a particular part of the face. Be sure to let us know when booking the service, what exactly you want us to focus on.
The products you want for clear skin
For younger skin - Eminence Organics Clear Skin Kit – Our Clear Skin Starter Set is beautifully packaged with a one-month’s supply of targeted organic products to treat oily and problem skin types. Starter Set Includes: • Clear Skin Probiotic Cleanser (1oz / 30 ml tube) • Clear Skin Probiotic Moisturizer (0.5oz / 15 ml tube) • Clear Skin Probiotic Masque (0.5oz / 15 ml jar) • Clear Skin Willow Bark Booster-Serum (0.5oz / 15 ml bottle)
For mature skin (yes we get breakouts too) – Eminence Organics Red Currant kit - Take preventative action against the early signs of aging with the Youth Shield Starter Set. The products in this starter set are designed to nourish and balance, protect and hydrate the skin's appearance. EACH SET INCLUDES: Red Currant Exfoliating Cleanser (1oz / 30 ml tube) Red Currant Rapid Infusion Masque (0.5 oz / 15 ml jar) Red Currant Balancing Concentrate (0.33 oz tube) Red Currant Protective Moisturizer SPF 30 (0.5 / 15 ml oz tube) I would buy this kit just for the super cute bag!
For hormonal breakouts - Our Eight Greens Starter Set will help you target problem skin and reduce the visible signs of hormonal aging using the power of super-charged greens for clearer looking skin. Starter Set Includes: • Stone Crop Gel Wash (1oz / 30 ml tube) • Eight Greens Phyto Masque (0.5 oz / 15 ml jar) • Eight Greens Phyto Masque - Hot (0.5 oz / 15 ml jar) • Eight Greens Youth Serum (0.5oz / 15 ml bottle) • Eight Greens Whip Moisturizer (0.5 / 15 ml oz tube)
Ask your therapist what YOU need!!